After starting receiving overload messages when cranking volume up, I opened it up and saw pristine electronic elements performing without glitch.
Although not opened or cleaned for 11 years:
- there was very little dust inside
- capacitors cool after hours of work, original shape, no distortions
- cooling fan noiselessly gets on and off, depending on internal case temperature
- huge cooler in the middle of the case was not overheating, just felt warm
- all soldering intact, connectors firm
It was only after I readjusted clumsy wire connectors at the back of the case, that fixed the problem.
Pulling every individual speaker connection in & out, making sure that it felt connected, I restored firm connection, and receiver started blasting without overload interruptions.
I feel that receiver's back panel is the only weak spot of this piece of art.
Never paying to much attention on speaker cables, I used most common ones, twisting their connector end with hand, without soldering them. Inevitably, they lose their grip in time, and cause overload when system draws maximum output power.
In my case, that is 5x100w.
The two front speakers, two surround and one passive sub-woofer, each bearing power of 100W.

Update 2 months later:
After performing fantastic for awhile, it went back to the original state.
If volume is left on maximum, when unit is powered, starts to choke right away.
Than, after 4-5 minutes, an error goes away, but the receiver must not be used at 100%.
At this point, I think that the problem is in wires I use to connect speakers with the receiver.
They are of lowest quality. However, the price difference is substantial, so I will give another update when I manage to buy the grounded, shielded speakers' wires.
Update:
It's not the wires. The receiver goes to error without wires connected, so it's logical that the speaker's wires have nothing to do with the problem.
Update Aug2011
I have notices that after disconnecting all the speaker wires from the back of the receiver, and then a couple of hours later connecting them back, the sound system works on loudest without a glitch, and not reporting error for a couple of weeks.
The bass sound , even without the amplifier, is especially impressive.
Then it is back all over again. I am still dwelling on buying expensive shielded audio cables.
Update Sept2011
Still doing unplug-connect back trick.
Update Nov2012
Disconnected the unit and hoping to find some cash to have it repaired by a professional.
Update April2013
Gave it to an experienced electronics repairman, he claimed that output amplifier passed the test, and suspect that a CPU is to blame. Which in this case translates to "dump the thing". I am not giving up yet.


Greetings,
ReplyDeleteAre you still trying to troubleshoot this receiver. I have the same overload issue with my techics (not at home so I don't know the model number).
I brought it to a technician buddy of mine who of course did not experience the over load issue and was therefore unable to troubleshoot.
In any case, thanks for the blog. I'm going to experiment with my own speaker wiring to see if I might have similar, if only partial, luck. I'll try anything before I replace it.
Let me know if you'd like me to keep you posted.
Vince
Of course, keep posting, keep me informed.
DeleteAs for me, I have grown tired of partial and temporary solutions, and disconnected the thing. When I get some spare money, I will take it for repair to a professional. For some reason, I am convinced that the overload is caused by a single component inside, like capacitor or transistor. My receiver has been used extensively and to the max over the years, and that kind of abuse had to cost me something. However, I will not scrape this exceptional piece of equipment, I am too attached to it.
Hello.
ReplyDeleteI happened to stumble on this page while searching for a similar solution.
I've heard also that the fan connections sometimes stretch and need maintenance?
I don't think so. The thing is well made. I might have a solution soon. A buddy of mine seems to be convinced it's the output amplifier fault. I will keep you posted on what components exactly.
DeleteThanks for all the ideas. I have never tried to fix any electronics but I'm going to open the thing and try everything you have posted. Thanks again and please keep updating. I have the EUR646489 model.
DeleteIncidentally my EX300 goes to overload when it's not even quarter of the way round the volume? And happens when there is no music playing too? This is confusing to me. I don't want to replace it either. I was considering stripping it down and reassembling it and maybe put some fresh heatsink compound on the output ICs. I should add that I've not seen the fan work at all? The heatsink does get quite warm but wouldn't say hot. I managed to download a free copy of the complete service manual and it shows that the overload message is produced by the IC901 located on the front panel. I suspect that may be the culprit but have no replacement to test this theory. I have to say I was surprised at the connection this circuit has to the main board, definate place where oxidisation could occur. I'd really appreciate it if you do manage to source the problem so I can resume normal operation. I've never really pushed this Amp to its full potential so I'm confused why it should happen.
DeleteI hope to hear from you soon as it's rather annoying as I don't have another amp to put in it's place while troubleshooting.
Hi there, throw me a link to that service manual, will you?
ReplyDeleteI suppose it would be prudent to see if IC901 could be purchased somewhere and replace the original with it. I think you can safely forget the notion that overheat is the problem. My unit goes to error mode straight away, with no time for any of the board elements to heat up. The cooling fan is noiseless, and works great too. It is controlled very well, and engages only when activated by temperature sensor.
I can't remember where I got the manual from but I can certainly send you it direct if you can advise where ?
ReplyDeleteJust found the link after a bit of a history search lol
ReplyDeletehttp://elektrotanya.com/technics_sa_ex300_e_eb_eg_sm.pdf/download.html
Hope this helps you , and obviously me too (",)
I'm working on a similar amplifier. If you're close-by maybe I can help?
ReplyDeleteClose by with solution or close by geographically?
DeleteI am in Croatia, Europe.
It seems that the next step for me is to find out if motherboard IC chip can be replaced, and if replacement can be found anywhere, since it is an obsolete part.
This blog shows up (to me) as a .ca site so I thought you were in Canada. My mistake!
DeleteAnyway, I'm very sure the IC you mention is not the problem. You will likely need to find an electronic technician (AKA 'The Wizard') who can help you troubleshoot and repair this issue. A professional service would like cost much more than a new amplifier. There are many common issues that show up in this type of equipment and most are heat/age related.
If you think I can assist from here let me know.
Those are my thoughts too. The cost of repair would top the price of a new, improved unit. That is why I am dancing around this issue for years now. If there is no quick fix for it, it is not cost efficient to bather with it. What surprises me is the number of people with the same issue, and the fact that I could not find the single one who had solved it.
DeleteYes, these problems are very common and sometimes they are relatively easy to fix. Many who are able to are also charging for their work so are less likely to spend time explaining and posting about it. There are plenty of resources available to learn about electronic repair and if you spend enough time working on it you'll figure it out.
ReplyDelete